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How To Make Salvia Divinorum Extract

By John Clarke

Have you ever tried making your own crude Salvia divinorum extract at home, and wondered why it looks like a black sticky mess that smokes harsher than a por­cu­pine eating com­pet­i­tion? Well, fear not, for this guide will ensure a quality fin­ished product rivalling that of store-​​bought extracts.

This extract will make approx­im­ately 10g of unstand­ard­ised 10x extract. Provided you can use a cal­cu­lator, the quant­ities detailed below can be jiggled around to make any strength extract you want.

Salvia divinorum Leaf


100g Salvia divinorum Leaf
You can get Salvia divinorum Leaf all over the Internet.
1x Large Saucepan
Just a regular large saucepan. Make sure it’s clean. No one wants to find the remains of burnt on spa­ghetti in their pipe.
1x Pyrex Tray
A large, wide, glass dish essen­tially. You might find a cas­serole dish fits the bill.
1x Small Glass Container
Any­thing will do, even a jam jar.
1x Tall, Narrow Glass Container
The perfect tool for the job is a boiling tube, but any­thing remotely similar will do.
1x Pipette
Not everyone has access to cal­ib­rated volu­metric pipettes so any­thing that looks like an eye dropper will do. That means, a thin tube with a rubber bit on the end which you can squeeze.
2lt Propane Based Solvent
No not propane, but either propan-​​2-​​ol (AKA Iso­p­ro­panol, Iso­p­ropyl Alcohol, Rubbing Alcohol) or pro­panone (AKA Acetone). They need to be 99% pure at least. Don’t even think about using nail varnish remover.
300ml Naphtha
The best source of com­mer­cially avail­able naphtha in the UK is lighter fluid.

Step 1 - Powder Your Leaf

The first thing to do is weigh out your 100g of Salvia divinorum Leaf. Remove 10g of the best leaves from your stash and set them aside for later. The remaining 90g needs to be powdered using your trusty coffee grinder. It’s high RPM motor and stain­less steel blades are no match for your dried salvia leaf. It’s worth pointing out that although the leaves may not instantly grind, you’ll have to give them a few minutes, but they WILL powder even­tu­ally. Use the grinder in 1 minute bursts, allowing the motor to cool in between. When you remove the lid from the grinder, unless you want to look like Shrek, do it in a fume cup­board. The coffee grinder will reduce the leaf to a flour like con­sist­ency which will billow out as soon as you remove the lid, turning everything in the imme­diate vicinity a sexy shade of green.

Step 2 - Extract The Salvinorin-A

Now you have 90g of powdered leaf, get it in your saucepan and pour in enough solvent to com­fort­ably cover your leaf. Stir it con­stantly for 5 minutes and then let it sit for 8 hours or so. After that time, enough of the salvinorin should have dis­solved in your solvent, so you can now care­fully pour off the liquid in your saucepan into your Pyrex tray, being careful enough to leave all the solids behind.

If you’d like to make sure you extract as much salvinorin-​​a as pos­sible, you may repeat this step once more.

Step 3 - The Waiting Game

As simple as it sounds, you have about 16 hours in which to twiddle your thumbs, watch some paint dry, or whatever you feel like. During this time, don’t even think about touching your extrac­tion, and make sure it’s in a dark place. Light has a nasty habit of des­troying salvinorin-​​a in solu­tion. The purpose of this step is to let any sed­i­ment such as tannins fall out of the leaf which are hard to extract later on.

After the 16 or so hours are up, you may pour off the remaining liquid into the ori­ginal saucepan, provided you emptied out the powdered leaf earlier.

Step 4 - Evaporating The Solvent

This takes forever, is incred­ibly boring and will give you ter­rible stomach ache if you don’t do it some­where well vent­il­ated. The best, safest and longest method of evap­or­ating the solvent is in the dark, in the absence of heat. Remember, the solvent is flam­mable, so applying heat to it should be avoided. Blowing air across the solvent will speed things up sub­stan­tially, so if you have a fan, use it, but again, only some­where well vent­il­ated. If the fan pro­duces a spark, it could ignite the vapour, blowing up both you and your extraction.

When the evap­or­a­tion is com­plete, you should be left with a load of black gunk on the inside of your con­tainer. This is as far as most people get with their extrac­tions and is the reason why the end result is a black sticky mess. That’s ok for about 5x or 6x extracts, but any stronger than that and it becomes unsmokable.

Step 5 - Purification

When your black gunk is com­pletely dry, you can scrape it out of your con­tainer and place it into a tall, narrow con­tainer. To this, add 50ml or so of naphtha. The naphtha dis­solves the green/​black waxes but leaves behind the salvinorin-​​a. After you add the first lot of naphtha, allow the con­tainer 30 minutes or so to settle, then pipette off two thirds of the naphtha and discard it. Repeat this process at LEAST 5 more times until your salvinorin-​​a is no longer a black colour. If you keep washing with naphtha, it will even­tu­ally turn white, however that kind of purity isn’t neces­sary for making 10x extract. If you were making some­thing like 40x or 60x (not recom­mended), then the higher the purity, the better.

After the last naphtha wash, remove two thirds one last time and this time, allow the naphtha to evap­orate off, leaving you with rel­at­ively pure salvinorin-​​a. DO NOT try and smoke/​ingest this, as even a tenth of a mil­li­gram can be too much for some people.

Step 6 - Fortification

Now we have the salvinorin-​​a from 90g of leaf, we shall add it back to the 10g of quality leaf you set aside in Step 1. Although not com­pletely accurate, you can see this is why it’s called 10x extract, as there’s 10x the amount of salvinorin-​​a in the fin­ished product.

To do this, we place the salvinorin-​​a we pro­duced in the pre­vious step into the saucepan and add to it the same amount of solvent we used in step 1. Stir it round for a few minutes to ensure it has all dis­solved. Next, add the 10g of leaf to your small con­tainer and pour the con­tents of the saucepan over it.

You can now evap­orate off all of this solvent as before, until all of the solvent has evaporated.

The fin­ished product is approx­im­ately 10g of leaf, looking a little darker than normal, 10 times as strong.

55 Responses to How To Make Salvia Divinorum Extract

  1. Ed says:

    After I wash all the powdered Salvia with solvent, what do I do with all the solids which is left behind? Can it be used for anything?

  2. Synchronium says:

    Not really, no. You could perhaps wash them once again just to be sure you’ve got everything, but you’ll pull far more waxy crap out of the leaves com­pared to any­thing useful, espe­cially if acetone is your solvent of choice.

    You may as well throw them away.

  3. Bob says:

    Very Good explan­a­tion of the process. Thank you, still I have a very stupid ques­tion. When you speak of pow­dering the leaf, I auto­mat­ic­ally think your speaking of dried leaves. Does this whole process begin with 100g. of dried leaves or leaves freshly pulled from the plant?

  4. Synchronium says:

    You’re right, that’s 100g of dried leaf.

    Of course the maths would work out the same for dried or fresh. Taking the material from 90g of fresh leaves and depos­iting it onto 10g of fresh leaves, you’ll still have an approx­imate 10x extract. You’d then have either a) 10g of extract that’s 10x stronger than the same weight of fresh leaves or b) much less than 10g of a 10x extract once you dried it out.

    No doubt that’s further con­fused things, so just stick with the dried leaf!

  5. th says:

    ok i’ve smoked xxx from club 13, it was pretty strong, how do i make that?

  6. Synchronium says:

    That depends on just how strong their XXXtract is in com­par­ison to plain leaf. Surely it should say some­where on the pack­aging? If not, that’s some shameful mar­keting by Club 13…

  7. BJ says:

    okay, so when extracting this with rubbing alcohol and cleaning it with lighter fluid, are any of these solvents left in the final product? I am all for it if the solvents can com­pletely leave the end product.

    thanks guys,

  8. Synchronium says:

    Providing you evap­orate the solvents com­pletely, there should be nothing present in your final product.

    One decent way to check is by pouring a bit of either solvent onto a clean surface, let it evap­orate and see if any residue is left behind. There should be none, but if there is some, try a dif­ferent brand of lighter fluid or something…

  9. first tymer says:

    what did u use to make it more potent? what was your solvent choice?

  10. Brian says:

    Very neat and help­full guide, well done. :)
    I have a few ques­tions, I would be glad if you could help me out:

    1. Which would be the best solvente to use? At the moment I have access to 99% acetone, 99% ethanol or 99% iso­p­ropyl alcohol, which of these would work best/​worst?

    2. How come in the “For­ti­fic­a­tion” step we dont lose half of the salvinorin by it getting stuck to the walls and bottom of the con­tainer? As the solvent evap­or­ates, the salvinorine will cristalize both at the leaves and at the jar.

    Thank you very much.

  11. Joe sanday says:

    Good guide :) but what other solvents can i use for the extract?

  12. Chris says:

    is there any poten­tial danger when making the extract if i missed a step or didnt do it exactly right?

  13. Dan says:

    When placing the dried leaf into the saucepan with the solvent, should we be heating the sub­stance or boiling it? And if we should be heating it for how long exactly?

  14. Synchronium says:

    No need to heat or boil with this method. Some people using acetone prefer to use it chilled — you get less salvinorin-​​a, but a lot less waxy gunk.

    I’ll get back to the other ques­tions when I have a bit of time.

  15. Dan says:

    During puri­fic­a­tion, when i add the naphtha, I give it 30 minutes to settle and pipette off 23! will there be clear sep­ar­a­tion if looking at the con­tainer and if so is the top 23 sup­posed to be the naphtha and the bottom 13 sup­posed to be salvinorin-​​a?

  16. Synchronium says:

    In the naphtha, there should be some stuff that won’t dis­solve at the bottom of the con­tainer. 23 is an arbit­rary amount to remove, just to avoid dis­turbing (and acci­dent­ally removing) any of the solids at the bottom. The solids will be black at first, but with sub­sequent naphtha washes, it will even­tu­ally go light green and hope­fully white.

    This is the Salvinorin-​​A.

  17. Dan says:

    So by the end of the whole process u should be left with rel­at­ively light green liquid or rel­at­ively light green solids?

  18. Synchronium says:

    Light green solids.

    Here’s a couple of pic­tures of what I’m talking about:
    Salvinorin-AThird Wash
    Salvinorin-ASeventh Wash

    I might make my own pics if I ever do this again, but they should suffice

  19. Ed says:

    Hi, This is really good method. but I do have a ques­tion on the picture. How come on the third wash, the black liquid is on top and on the seventh wash, the black liquid is on the bottom? What should I remove, the black stuff or the green stuff? thanks


  20. anthony says:

    i hope someone reso­ponds quick.
    how high of heat do i cook the salvia at in the pan?

  21. Synchronium says:

    Ed: The liquid goes from dark green to light green because each wash removes some green waxy crap from the extract. The solid goes from green to white with more washes. It’s the solid stuff in the bottom you need to keep.

    Anthony: You don’t need to heat it at all. A saucepan is just a con­venient size.

  22. anthony says:

    okay thank you. so when i wash out the napatha i just can get ride of it cause it dosent have any extract in it? and does it have to be pure napatha? cause my lighter fluid only con­tains it? The solids in the bottom of the napatha con­taior are the salvia right? so i keep them? if i keep puri­fying it does it get stronger?

  23. manohman says:

    Maybe you could read it again or utilize Google to answer these sloppy ques­tions.. took me approx­im­ately 3.4 seconds.
    Achieved near white extrac­tion first time.

  24. Synchronium says:

    Man­ohman: You’re my new favourite blog com­menter. :)

  25. anthony says:

    wow. man­ohman your kinda bitchy! whatever no worries. sending good­vibes your way and maybe i can cure your rudeness.

  26. Martinos says:

    Can u use some other Solvents?
    Like spir­itus? 95%…
    Which are the safest methods to use from solvents?
    And do u have to use naphta? or is there some­thing safer?

  27. Martinos says:

    Just to add, why I’m looking for some extra details about the solvents… They are dan­gerous if you con­sumpt them or inhail, so u have to be 100% sure there none in the salvia left so u can’t inhale the… there’s my ques­tion about how to be sure or are there some other methods or alkochols.

    Thank you.

  28. maybe says:

    According to wiki­pedia ethanol is also a good solvent for salvinorinA. Using take 95% ethanol and make a tinc­ture? Is it usable in this form or will I get side effects from using it with alcohol? Would evap­or­a­tion produce a residure or at least high con­cen­tra­tion, i,e, a usable altern­ative to the above method?

  29. Canadian says:

    i’d just like to say, this is very clear and precise
    i’ve yet to grow my salvia divinorum plants but once i have done, i’m sure i’ll use this method of extrac­tion ;D
    i tried 60x last week and i have to say… its pretty insane
    at first i felt like i was in a movie then i got the giggles and everything started flashing, time felt like it had slowed down, i love this stuff xD

  30. Cajunchef says:

    man­ohman you have a point, with ques­tions like these maybe they should read with there eyes open or better yet not be working with flam­mable liquids . Good luck thank God for firemen!

  31. sallyD says:

    10g is for the extract and 90g is for the extrac­tion process itself right? In the puri­fic­a­tion stage, would you not need to add more than 50ml of naphtha? As I dont think 50ml is going to cover 90g of salvia leaves.

  32. Anderson says:

    Do u think if u took the extract after puri­fying it with the lighter fluid and soaked salvia seeds in it… It would make new salvia plant already 10x stronger??

    Alsooo.. After u get the pur­i­fied extract from washing why do u have to put the solvent (alcohol) back with it when u put it on the 10g of leaves? Why not just the extractt?

    Sry for the ques­tions just alil con­fused. Thanx in advance!

  33. Doug says:

    The your seed theory to make a 10x plant wouldnt work. Salvinorin A and B are found in the leaves of the plant, not the seed.

    If you smoked the 10x extract without the puri­fic­a­tion process it would produce too harsh a smoke.

    The puri­fic­a­tion process reduces the harsh­ness. If you want to create extract without the puri­fic­a­tion then the maximum ‘x’ you can get without pro­du­cing a harsh smoke is 5-​​6x.

    Hope this helped

  34. Sam says:

    Does this same thing work with the herb “Damiana Leaf”? I have looked all over for tips on how to extract “Damiana” and cannot find any­thing, I was just won­dering if this method was uni­versal for herbs/​leaves, or if it works only for the Salvinorin chem­ical. Thanks –S

  35. Doug says:

    I am not sure if it works for Damiana. However when it comes to extrac­tions people either try water (used for extracting lsa in morning glory and HBW seeds) or alcohol (again for seeds or psylobin) or a solvent (as is the case here for salvia leaves). If you have enough Damiana leaves to spare then you might want to try ser­perate extrac­tions using alcohol,water,and a solvent such as acetone.
    Your best bet is with acetone or another solvent.

    Hope this helped

  36. jay says:

    con­fused on how to make stronger extracts

  37. drew says:

    Hello hope your all ok,just a small question,what type of solvent is one tou use with salvia?.

  38. eWanG says:

    Does it make a dif­fer­ence whether you use acetone or IPA.? IPA is a lot cheaper but will it cause lower yield than acetone? I don’t mind waiting the extra time for the IPA so that isn’t a factor

  39. Sam Fisher says:

    Can this be done with Marijuana? I have cancer and am pre­scribed marijuana as part of my treatment.

  40. canadian2 says:

    yes this can be done with mar­i­janna. So I figured out it is just like a ratio to tell how strong your extract is. so if you put less leafs back into the pure salvia you can make stronger extracts. like instead of putting 10 g of leaves back into the 90 g of extract you could put like 1 g back in and make a stronger extract.

  41. erke13 says:

    i have used this method for THC extrac­tion and during the drying time i dont wait i light the acetone on fire as long as it is in a pyrex dish the glass wont break,its alot faster and i find the end result less harsh then when i air dried it. the fire is not whats gonna hurt you, you being stupid with the fire is what will hurt you​.so try at your own risk.

  42. Why not? says:

    So if its so easy to make this, how about i offer you $25 for the ten grams you make?

  43. Andy says:

    So as Brian before me asked the question…in the ‘for­ti­fic­a­tion’ step how do we know that the extract will only stick to the leaves, and not be wasted on the walls or at the bottom of the saucepan, after the evaporation?

  44. Joe says:

    Ok so I got the leafs powdered and in the saucepan , I get everything else BUT why use acetone? Or How do I keep acetone from evap­or­ating before the 8 hour wait on the dir­ec­tions in the second step much less the 3 and 4 because it sounds and looks as if it needs to stay liquified the whole process? Pls help As to how to use acetone without it evap­or­ating and thank you

  45. Joe says:

    It’s been about 20 min with the acetone in the saucepan it’s holding up well but I know acetone has a tend­ency to evaporate

  46. henry says:

    i hope someone answers quick.
    where can i find naphtha?

  47. Peter says:

    where can i get some naphtha in the uk? the ‘swan’ lighter fluid i have con­tains pet­ro­leum distillate,nos.I have done a search but cant find it.

    DO you need both Propane Based Solvent and Naphtha? i can get 99% iso­p­ropyl alcohol no problem its just the Naphtha

  48. chy says:

    i have a ques­tion, if you wash it less will it make it stronger, an another, if u use less nephtha an more leaf does it make it stronger?

  49. Zimm says:

    Zippo brand fluid is very refined and con­tains naphtha

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